The shoulder season is always my favorite time to travel, for the Mediterranean, that would be April, May, September and October. In 2024, The spring was bombarded with birthdays and graduations, but the Fall was the perfect opportunity to take a break and jet away for a few weeks.
Despite planning trips and traveling for many years, there are always things we may change in retrospect. I will share everything we did and anything we would change if we could plan the trip again, so you can take our itinerary do the same!
The Itinerary
Our 11-day trip began with a two-hour drive to the airport, followed by 14 hours on planes and numerous hours in the airport to spend the next twenty minutes on a train and a half mile walk with luggage to arrive at our first stop: Marriott’s AC Hotel Firenze in Florence, Italy.
For the first three days of our trip, consisted of gallivanting around the city stopping to see sights, snip spritzes, and snack on schiacciata sandwiches. The day we landed, we did not have any established plans in case of sudden flight delays. Instead, we strolled around the city for some lunch. Once in the city center, stopped upon I Fratellini for schiacciata sandwiches, a sandwich that is essentially a panino but on a chewy, doughy schiacciata flatbread traditional in the Tuscan region. We opted for a simple prosciutto and cheese schiacciata sandwich and sat on the curbside munching on our lunch with all of the locals.
After our bellies were full, we decided to pick up tickets for the Medici Palace, where we could waltz through the family quarters while awing at the antique furniture and jewels and imagine our lives if we lived in a home this grand.
With the few hours of sleep on the first flight and 15,000 steps later, we decided we would make the trek from the hotel all the way over to the Piazza Michelangelo. The walk, though somewhat steep, was wonderful. The breeze was blowing, and the sun began to set over the city, treating us to the views of Florence aglow at Sunset.
The following morning was significantly more structured. We decided to spend the morning climbing the tower of the Santa Maria del Fiore before spending hours walking through the museum and basking in the glory of the cathedral. In between, we stopped to fill up on pizza and wine at a cure pizzeria by the name of Corte dei Pazzi a few blocks up. For less than 50 Euros, we got two giant, fresh pizzas and a bottle of local red wine to split.
Later that evening, we had reservations to La Carabaccia where we had the opportunity to try traditional Florentine steak. Preceded by an Amalfi lemon and cream pasta and after the best limoncello I have ever tasted.
For our last morning before our cruise, Matt has something incredibly special in store. We awoke at 4:45 am to get ready four our sunrise photoshoot at the Duomo. The morning was a whirlwind of mascara, hairspray, and heels flying around the room as we race to get our the door.
We arrived before Rita, our wonderful photographer, and while waiting soaked up the city in the early hours. The experience working with Rita was wonderful. She knows how to truly capture the love and emotion of the view. After a few photos later, Rita had me walk away from Matt while, unbeknownst to me, Matt dropped down on one knee behind my back. I was prompted to turn around, and I was overjoyed with the question I have waited years to hear “Will you Marry Me?”.
After laughs, happy tears, and many more photos later, we raced back to the hotel to change, pack up, and eat breakfast before our train left for Portofino.
Portofino, Italy
Our stay in Portofino was short but beautiful. The one night on the quiet seaside town was marked by a walk to the public beach, nestled in the cliffside before polishing up for dinner. We dined at Lo Stella, where they specialize in fine local cuisine and wine. The atmosphere was immaculate; dining on fresh caught fish and Ligurian white wine under the shimmer of the candlelight and stars on the outdoor terrace.
Before turning in, we broke the news to friends and family in the states about our engagement and then headed to bed for a restful night of slumber.
Upon arising in the morning, we strolled down to breakfast on the harbor front to fuel our morning trek up to the lighthouse. Due to our early train ride to Genoa, we finished our walk and packed up and left to board our next train.
Mediterranean Cruise
Departure from Genoa, Italy
Our train stopped at the station in Genoa, less than half a mile from the boat terminal. After lugging our suitcases to the terminal, we were escorted ahead of the line to an exclusive check-in area. Staying in the MSC Yacht Club came with many perks upon boarding. From a separate check in area with refreshments, to a butler who personally escorts you to your room, to a room that is ready upon boarding, the perks are nearly endless.
After boarding the boat, we were led into the exclusive lounge for small bites and sips while the concierge shared information about our trip. After the info-session, the butler led us to our room and informed us that he will be back to escort us to dinner.
Unfortunately, our butler never showed so we spent time trying to find the way to the Yacht Club dining room. After 30 minutes of wandering, we finally found the set of stairs that led us to dinner. When seated, the waiters and sommelier took wonderful care of us. Recommending the proper wine to accompany our dinner selection and provide us a vast selection of freshly baked bread.
The next few nights would be spent enjoying the opulent lounge and wonderfully attentive care from our steward.
Marseille – Aix-en-Provence, France
The first morning aboard, we woke up early to grab a quick breakfast before our excursion to Aix-en-Provence. Another perk of the Yacht Club is that you never have to wait in line to disembark the cruise regardless of a booked excursion or not. Your butler will be lead ahead of the line to disembark the boat.
Our excursion boarded the bus and headed 40 minutes from the coastal town of Marseille to Aix-en-Provence. The excursion included the ride to and from Aix and the boat as well as a local tour guide who led us through the winding streets while sharing the highlights of the city’s rich history. This was then followed with some free time to wander on our own.
We walked the store-lined streets and stopped at a small soap shop to pick up some of the famed local olive oil and lavender soap. By this point, we had 30-minute remaining, so we made our way back to the meeting point where I snagged a woven basket in the market before popping into a patisserie. Here, we had the best pastries and tartes we have ever experienced. Moments later, the rest of the group convened, and we made our way back to the bus and were dropped off at the cruise ship to continue our trip.
Tarragona, Spain
Friday morning, we awoke with plans to spend at the beach. Tarragona, located in the Catalonian region, is known for the coastline referred to as Costa Dorada as well as the ancient Roman ruins. Our plans were to enjoy the fresh blue waters under the warm sun after exploring the city came to a sudden halt when we arose to grey skies and a cool breeze. Unfortunately, this is not where the weather would end. The weather app showed a short drizzle which we planned to combat with lunch somewhere inside. For precaution, we packed a small travel umbrella to protect the backpack, and our rain jackets.
Once ready, we disembarked the boat and hopped on the complementary bus into the city. We spent the first half an hour exploring the Ampitheater, a UNESCO world heritage site, before the predicted drizzle began. We draped on our raincoats and continued to explore the city. Suddenly, a torrent of rain starts falling down in droves. Now you must be thinking that with an umbrella and raincoats that we would be okay, and you would be right if we weren’t wearing tennis shoes.
After waiting out the rain for 20 minutes hiding under the entrance to a cafe, we decided to cut our losses and make our way back to the boat to dry up. Our soggy shoes squished and squashed three-quarters of a mile back to the bus stop where we waited 45 minutes for the next empty bus to arrive and escort us back to warmth.
At this point, we spent our afternoon drying up, relaxing, and having a bite to eat at the Yacht Club restaurant.
Valencia, Spain
Despite the downpour of the day before, the weather was set to be warm and sunny in Valencia. We had pre-booked a tour of the San Jose caves and were looking forward the lantern-lit caverns as we float our way through, and the guide shares the history. To our dismay, the rain for the previous day had flooded out the caverns and the tour ended up cancelled. This left us with no plans but a wonderful day to explore the city, and that is what we did.
We took a portion of the money from the cancelled tour and bought cruise bus tickets that would takes us into the city center. The afternoon was spent walking through the Lonja de la Seda, the Valencian Silk Exchange that dates back to 1492 and has seen travelers from all over the globe looking to trade their goods or bask in awe of the intricately carved wood and marble. We opted to spend the few euros to both walk the grounds while listening to the history on the portable audio guide. We followed La Lonja up with more historical sights. The Catedral de Valencia was ornately decorated with marble, gold, and religious relics.
After all of the learning and sights, we were famished and eager to try paella. Being the birthplace of Paella, it was only right to find somewhere local to dine. We found El Forcat after strolling for a while, and the owner was nothing but welcoming. Our wonderful server suggested a few appetizers that were incredible. thinly sliced cured tuna over roasted red peppers, and a warm bean dish full of local vegetables, all accompanied by Agua de Valencia, a sweet orange juice-based cocktail typically served in a pitcher. Following the appetizers, we ordered a pan of paella meant for two people. This paella came out and definitely could have fed nearly 4 people. Full of crispy rice, tender chicken and rabbit, cooked in a green herbal broth, we were in heaven.
By the time we finished lunch, we were stuffed and nearly out of time to board the boat. We took the opportunity to stroll back to the boat and allow our bodies to digest.
The next day was spent at sea relaxing and starting to think about our future wedding.
Livorno, Italy
After our failed attempt to relax at the beach in Tarragona, we decided the best plan was the spend the afternoon at the local beach after walking the city. Livorno, being a cute port town is accessible to many tourist sights via public transportation, but on this day, there were transportation worker strikes effecting trips from Livorno, so our decision was to stay within walking distance of the port since public transportation would be ending by midday.
There is not much to tell about Livorno, especially since the wind was blowing strong, creating a strong wake and covering most of the seashore. When we made our way to the beach and realized this, we decided to spend some time soaking in the breeze and sun before walking the 3 miles back to the boat.
Along the way, we stopped in a local gelateria for a scoop of fig and ricotta gelato to split.
All in all, it was a very nonchalant day.
Civitavecchia, Italy
Civitavecchia, is a nice port city on Italy, located closest to Rome. A few years back, Matt and I had the wonderful opportunity to experience Rome for around a week, so we decided that it would be best to get acquainted with the hidden paradises of the local communities.
Just one train stop up from Civitavecchia is Santa Marinella, a quaint beach town with an even smaller train stop. After crossing over the two tracks, we walked the three blocks over to the public beach entrance…a small set of uneven stone stairs with a sign stating “Spiaggia Libera”. The beach was small, rocky, and ungroomed, but with the warm sun and refreshing seaweed-filled water, it was perfect.
After days of traveling and miles of walking, 4 hours spent lounging on the beach was exactly what we needed prior to our trek back to the boat. Our relaxing day was concluded with returning to the boat, packing up the last of our belongings, and indulging in one final four-course dinner accompanied by drinks before heading off to bed.
Arrival back in Genoa, Italy
After one final night sleep being gently rocked by the waves, we got dressed and ready to return to Florence for the night before our flight back to reality. We departed Genoa the same way we arrived but instead ended in Florence, Italy where we spent our last night at Hotel Albani Firenze before our 4 am trip to Amerigo Vespucci Airport.
The final night in Florence was spent enjoying our favorites: walking the alleyways of the city, watching the sun set over the Santa Maria del Fiore, where we were engaged to wed only a few short days prior, and sharing schiacciata sandwiches from All’Antico Vinaio while people admiring the marble statues located outside the Uffizi Gallery.
Back to Reality
The final morning was a blur. A four am wake up began our morning, where we again pulled our luggage down the ancient streets where we boarded the train to the airport. Upon arrival to the airport, we went to check our luggage where we were instructed to sprint a half-mile through the terminal with our carry-on luggage as we had been rebooked on the earlier flight. Now you may be asking “why were you rebooked?” and the simple answer is weather. The airport was wonderfully thoughtful and booked us on the empty seats for a flight two hours earlier as the rainstorm from days earlier in Spain was planning to interrupt our flight path and ground our original flight.
After the crazed morning, we landed in Munich where we noshed on a light breakfast in the Lufthansa lounge before boarding our flight back home. Our final flight was smooth and on time. We landed, collected our luggage, and made the two-hour drive home, where our jetlagged bodies would prepare to leave the following morning for another trip to Charleston, South Carolina to cerebrate two of our dearest friend’s engagement.
What we would change
It was an incredible trip and if I were to do it again here are the few things I would change.
Florence, Italy
- We would book tickets to walk the Duomo of the Santa Maria del Fiore in advance.
- They were sold out when we went to book them.
- We would certainly make reservations at the Trattorias we would like to try ahead of time.
Portofino, Italy
- After the proposal, I would take the later train to Portofino.
- Since I would arrive to Portofino in the evening instead, I would opt to stay for 2-3 nights instead.
Marseille / Aix-en-Provence, France
- Would have taken the last 3 hours at port in Marseille to ride 20 minutes into town and explore.
MSC Cruise
- We would look to see if the same Mediterranean cruise itinerary was offered on an MSC ship that had a better laid out Yacht Club.
- In contrast to the Norwegian Haven, MSC does not have an exclusive elevator for the Yacht Club, so you still may be stuck for up to half an hour waiting for an elevator with space. On Norwegian boats, there is an exclusive elevator, so you never have to wait to make it down to the disembarkment level for the ship.
Travel Plans
- We would triple check our train ticket times 48 hours before our trip, prior to check-in.
- Choose to take a bag that is lighter or without wheels or take a taxi to and from the cruise port as well as the Florence hotels.
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